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Thread: z2 rectifier/regulator replacement

  1. #1
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    z2 rectifier/regulator replacement

    here's a wiring diagram of the rectifier i used as replacement..

    2pcs of SKK S3H-02 (P60 each).. kaysa bumili ka ng stock blue SKK which costs P650.

    so far so good since i've been using this..DIY lang po yan.. hope this helps.

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    ayus yan sir, tnx for sharing

    *lagyan mo din kaya ng heatsink? or 2 more rectifier for the green and yellow line?

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    @jolads -welcome sir, no need for a heatsink...i checked the rectifiers after a long ride, wala naman signs of overheating..wrap ko lang sila ng electrical tape para d mabasa and positioned them under my seat.. im planning to open up the stock blue SKK para malaman kng ano ang laman..dko pa alam kng paano gawin and wala pang time.. hehe! wala akong idea about sa green/yellow line..basta yan ang ginawa ng mekaniko. wala akong prob sa charging.. one click start pa rin. but if you wish to put a heat sink, you may do so..or you can even use the blue one as heat sink..

    @z2 bros - share ko na lang to sa inyo para maka-DIY kayo at iwas bayad sa service..
    can anyone here explain this diagram pls..ano yung green at yellow lines? paki-post na rin po ng electrical schematic diagram if meron kayo! thanks!
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    very helpful bro.. copy ko ito sa forum namin dito sa cebu. i had the same problem also

    thanks!
    "a balanced diet is a beer on both hands!" -MIO SPORTY ROCKS!
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    ok! no problem! hehe! this will lessen expenses..

    share rin kayo kng meron kayo dyan ng ibang remedyo for our mc problems.
    Pro-RH Bill - the key to responsible parenthood.
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  6. #6
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    sir tanong lang, saan nabibili yung S3H-02?

    and bakit yung rectifier nyo blue? yung sa akin black?
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    sir ang pagkakaalam k mas matibay kasi ang black, saka mas mahal yun according to carl of probikes san pedro.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magnus_13x View Post
    sir ang pagkakaalam k mas matibay kasi ang black, saka mas mahal yun according to carl of probikes san pedro.
    ganun ba sir? pero di pa ako nagpalit, yun pa yung rectifier na kasama sa Z2 ko nung binili ko to.
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    Quote Originally Posted by i_am_weasel View Post
    sir tanong lang, saan nabibili yung S3H-02?

    and bakit yung rectifier nyo blue? yung sa akin black?
    sir, dito samin nabibili yan sa mga motorcycle parts dealer for all mc brands..pro i think wala yan sa mga shop na nagbebenta lang ng mga accessories.. if wala sir, try asking if merong ibang rectifier na pwd para sa 200-250cc.. d dw kasi pwd ang rectifier na para sa u-bones. the wiring will be just the same basta sakto lang ang configuration ng anode at cathode terminals.

    if wala talaga, pwd ko naman ipa-LBC sa inyo kng bulk orders para makatipid..basta kayo lang bayad ng freight.. hehe!

    BLUE talaga sir, nakita ko rin sa isang bagong kuhang z200, blue rin sa kanya. and it costs p650-680 dito.

    IMO, its not the color that matters bcoz yung blue/black casing serves only as a HEATSINK ng regulator diode sa loob. maybe u just got a better diode inside..hehehe!
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    sir up ko lang po na test nyo ba by using multi tester ung exact charging nyo, sabi kasi ng iba may tendency ma busted ung bat drive na cdi pag over charge and mas madali daw po masira ang bat pro sana po parehas din yan ng oem regulator natin ...... malaki ang katipiran he he he may pang gimik pa,,,,,TIA
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    sir ooseven, may built-in regulator ba yan s3h-02, afaik, the pink and yellow line is an AC output w/ about 25v+, so if its made up of just a diode then same voltage output convert nya lang yung ac to dc, na rectify lang yung pink for the bat+ then short out na yung yellow to green(-) how about regulation, does the output measure 12v+ at idle or more at higher rpm?

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    nung bumili ako ng bagong regulator sa service center they gave me the blue skk regulator yung para sa SG150 ata. may drain kaya di ko ginamit. some of the new z2s has the blue regulator. its the effectivity that counts.
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  13. #13
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    sir, may i know where (terminals) to put the probes ng multitester? wala akong schematic/wiring diagram ng z2 eh.. il do it as soon as il have the time.. then post ko dito ang values/readings.. tnx!

    reagrding sa performance ng mc electricals, so far not a single problem since i changed my rectifier. ive been using this mga less than 3mos na.
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    pwede na sir dun sa mismong battery terminal while mc is idling, dyan din punta ang output ng reg/rec.

    eto sir diagram for z2/250


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    Quote Originally Posted by ooseven View Post
    here's a wiring diagram of the rectifier i used as replacement..

    2pcs of SKK S3H-02 (P60 each).. kaysa bumili ka ng stock blue SKK which costs P650.

    so far so good since i've been using this..DIY lang po yan.. hope this helps.

    d ba dilikado 2? d ba masunog wiring mc natin ni2? d bale may fuse naman... hehehe

    ang nakita ko 2 diodes acting as rectifier. ang stock z2 blue skk kc sa pagkakaalam ko ay isang all-in-one "rectifier + smoothing + regulator". parang ganito


    AC current: AC current from stator/generator/alternator
    rectifier: bridge rectifier (4 individual diodes)
    smoothing: electrolytic capacitor
    regulator: voltage regulator IC

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    Add ko lng:

    Ganito po ang function ng bridge rectifier



    Bridge rectifier
    Alternate pairs of diodes conduct, changing over the connections so the alternating directions of AC are converted to the one direction of DC.



    Output: full-wave varying DC



    sa smoothing naman,



    Smoothing is performed by a large value electrolytic capacitor connected across the DC supply to act as a reservoir, supplying current to the output when the varying DC voltage from the rectifier is falling

    sa regulator naman,




    Voltage regulator ICs are available with fixed (typically 5, 12 and 15V) or variable output voltages. They are also rated by the maximum current they can pass. Negative voltage regulators are available, mainly for use in dual supplies. Most regulators include some automatic protection from excessive current ('overload protection') and overheating ('thermal protection').

    Many of the fixed voltage regulator ICs have 3 leads and look like power transistors, such as the 7805 +5V 1A regulator shown above. They include a hole for attaching a heatsink if necessary.

    Hope this helps....

  17. #17
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    ok..im doing a clean-up maintenance...test ko yan this weekend para malaman ang output voltage value.

    thanks for the infos sir roadstar..electronic enthusiast ka rin pla..Ohm's law na lang yata alam ko.. hehe!

    babalitaan ko kayo if anything gets wrong w/ my electricals just in case.. but so far, wala pa talaga eh.. evrything is fine.

    and another thing im considering is to cut/open the broken regulator..para malaman ang mga components inside.. any advise here how to do it? naka-asphalt yata eh. :P
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  18. #18
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    nice inputs mga bro....watch mode muna ko dito....
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    Note that an automotive/mc voltage regulator is not like a "three-pin regulator", as you may know it from standard electronic power supplies. The latter hold the voltage at their output constant, while a car/mc regulator switches its output voltage completely off.

    The generator of the charging system generates an alternating current that is rectified by diodes. As the generator rotor turns with the engine, its output voltage depends on - and changes with - the revolutions of the engine. However, we do not want a changing voltage: Things like electronics, battery and light prefer to run with a rather regulated voltage of about 13.6 V.

    Kaya pagrectifier diode lng nakalagay dyan mc mo. may posibility sasabog mga ilaw mc mo during high revs. Alam mo naman high-rev engine z2 natin... di kagaya sa mga ubones. The best way to test this changing voltage is to disconnect the red wire (+) sa battery terminal while nakaaandar yung mc mo. Connect the voltage tester (+) sa red wire at (-) sa green wire. then i-rev mo ang motor mo... note mo reading ng tester. d ba at high rev it will go as high as 20V or more?

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    May nabasa ako while surfing sa internet... pwede rin pala yung rectifier lng ang gamit... walang regulator... kagaya yung kay sir ooseven.

    Since wala sya voltage regulation, the battery acts like a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating DC produced by the charging system. Here's the downside, Disconnecting a battery while the engine is running can destroy sensitive electrical components, or even the charging system itself. These damages can occur because the voltage can rise to 40 volts or more.

    Since the battery do all the stabilizing, madali masira e2. Mas maganda kung lagyan mo ng capacitor battery mo.

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    Actually the 3 terminal voltage regulator and the MC's or any automobiles regulator works in sa same principle " To regulate voltage and the current.". For example. In my old scooter, I have a defective Regulator / Rectifier Module and sad to say e mahal ang parts. SO when I checked my scooters electrical system, napansin ko na ang scooter ko e may dalawa klaseng Windings sa sa stator nya., Primary at secondary. So The primary is for the Ignition system and the secondary, since sira na ang regulator rectifier ko e ndi na sya nag charge ng battery sO what I did, I tapped the secondary line and created a voltage regulator using LM317 and some SCR's The SCR acts as the controller switch kung kailangan pa nya i charge o trickle charge na muna ang battery . Basta ang goal is to have the DIY regulator to maintain the current and voltage of the battery so. I might post the circuit later as soon as I buy a new scanner.

    Heres the clue of my DIY Regulator

    WINDINGS --> RECTIFIER -->FILTER --> REGULATOR --> Battery --> back to REGULATOR

    The voltage from the windings is converted from AC into DC by the RECTIFIER(any 6A rectifier will do configured in Bridge, Fullwave, Halfwave or Bridge Fullwave),

    then the Filtered by the FILTERING Circuits(A Simple Capacitor and and Resitor that acts as Bleeder to discharge the Capacitor , so the filtered voltage then goes to the regulator section.


    REGULATOR, This sections regulates the VOLTAGE and the Current to maintain the battery in charged conditions.

    There is some form of feedback that tells the regulator to Start or Stop the Charging. It monitors the battery conditions in a continous manner. Now if lets say the battery is below the 12 volts the Regulator pumps the current to the battery and stops charging if the battery is full..

  22. #22
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    thread update....

    Quote Originally Posted by roadstar View Post
    May nabasa ako while surfing sa internet... pwede rin pala yung rectifier lng ang gamit... walang regulator... kagaya yung kay sir ooseven.

    Since wala sya voltage regulation, the battery acts like a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating DC produced by the charging system. Here's the downside, Disconnecting a battery while the engine is running can destroy sensitive electrical components, or even the charging system itself. These damages can occur because the voltage can rise to 40 volts or more.

    Since the battery do all the stabilizing, madali masira e2. Mas maganda kung lagyan mo ng capacitor battery mo.
    nakalimutan ko na itong thread ko ah.. hehe

    update ko lang po... na-test ko na po using a multitester and here and findings ko w/ regards to using the improvised replacement regulator:

    BATTERY VOLTAGE = 12-12.5V +/-10% (lagpas ng very konti sa 12) d kaya sa tester ang prob? :p

    @ IDLE SPEED (1400rpm) = 12.5-13V +/-10% in three trials

    @ about 7500-8000RPM = 14-15V +/-10% in three trials.. d na talaga lumalampas sa guhit ng 15V..

    kung may mahihiraman sana ako ng digital na multitester mas mabuti para mas accurate ang readings..

    or i have an idea to use 2 different testers for another check-up trials.. and compare.. or get the mean of all the readings...

    hope this helps... still, im planning to put those capacitors stated on the other thread..

    and update ko lang po na so far wala pa rin akong electrical problems with the use of this improvised rectifier/regulator. 1 click pa rin electric start every morning, not a single bulb was busted and battery is stil in top condition.. no physical defect on both rectifiers and battery.. no leaks since it is a sealed-type maintenance free battery.
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  23. #23
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    great! di ko pa nagawa ito... planning to attach this on a club member's bike
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  24. #24
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    up ko lang itong thread.. for new z200/z250 owners.. for reference na rin.
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  25. #25
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    15v is the limit. i have no regulator as well, direct charging na. to those who will try this which still runs on stock (haven't changed the bulbs to higher wattage, no added lights or gadgets), hinay-hinay po. if you go beyond 15V, baka marami pong susunugin.
    It takes two to tango :-)

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